Frills and ruffles are very popular embellishments in dressmaking. There are quite a few methods to gather fabric, but double basting method is the universal one. Its main advantage is that it can be used with any fabric,be it knitted or woven and it is essentially the same done by hand or sewing machine. The beauty of this method is the neatness of the result, it produces even and tidy ruffles and works equally well on straight or circular pieces.
Depending on the design fabric can be cut on straight, cross-grain or on bias. Bias method is favoured when the ruffle will be finished with the lettuce edge, and requires a fair bit of stretching.
Sewing circle skirt is not a time consuming project, this makes it a popular choice for home sewers. There is only four techniques you have to be familiar with: how to sew a curved hem, insert a zipper, attach a waistband and cut a buttonhole.
1. Cutting circle skirt.
Cutting a circle skirt can be done in one, two or three pieces, depending on the design and fabric width. When fabric is wide enough it is done in one piece. Since there are no seams you will have to use a welt or exposed zipper method.
Hemline is an integral part of the garment and completes the look of your dress. The method you are going to use to hem your dress should be decided on a early stage of the designing process. There are many varieties to chose from. Here are 10 most common ways to hem a dress using sewing machine, overlock and top stitching machine.
Double-folded hem. The raw edge is folded under the seam. This is a very versatile hem. Can be any width and might be used on majority of fabrics and with most designs.
Note: When the design calls for a narrow hem, use hemming foot. Most modern machines come with the "rolled hem" presser foot included in the standard package. It is a very useful, time saving tool, if you are willing to practice a little bit.
Serge and sew - raw edge is overlocked before stitching, it eliminates the need to fold the edge twice making the hem of the garment less bulky. Three-thread overlocking is the preferred way and can be wide or narrow depending on the thickness of your fabric.
Circle skirt is loved by little girls, it is perfect for twirling. Lucky for busy mums they are dead easy to make and don't require pattern. Here I put together a measurement guide for making one.
Decide how the waistline will be finished. The design may call for tie-up sash, elastic or zipper. Let your skill level be your guide.
Know how are you going to deal with the hemline, remember it's curved and should be finished accordingly. Hemming techniques.
Note: If you are going to make an elastic waist band make sure that the waistline of your skirt is big enough to put on comfortably. As a general rule it should be equal the circumference of the hips + 10 -12cm.