This is a very pretty dress whether you choose a plain fabric, a printed one, or to combine them both.
There are three main types of puffed sleeves that are very simple to draft from the basic sleeve pattern. The idea is to create enough extra fabric for gathering, which means to "stretch" the pattern in places were the ruffling will accrue. The "stretching" can be done along the head and hem of a sleeve, but never in the underarm area.
The process itself is not complicated. Start with a paper pattern of a sleeve. Mark the middle third of your pattern with parallel lines 3-4cm apart, cut and open out the pieces. The fuller the sleeve you are after the further you spread the parts. Traditionally it cannot be made more then 5cm. For fuller sleeve cut the strips narrower. In some old pattern making books you can find the pictures of a puffed sleeve draft looking like a fan with the strips cut as narrow as 1cm.
A circle skirt is pretty easy to make. It requires few pieces and basic techniques, making it a good exercise for beginners. If this is your first time I would advise to make a paper pattern first. For experienced sewers this step can be skipped; you are welcome to do the markings straight on the fabric.
Circle skirt math
To make this pattern you will need only two measurements - waist girth and the length of your skirt.
Circle skirts are commonly made in 360°, 270°, 180° or 90°, depending on how many folds you want. There is a formula to calculate the waist radius for each type of circle skirt.
- Full circle Skirt (360°)
- They fit the body better and do not need as much ease as the woven ones;
- Stretch fabric has to have stretch seams;
- Ball-point needle will prevent runs and holes at the seam. Continue reading Jersey Dress Sewing Instructions.
Difference between flounces and ruffles comes from the way the folds are formed. With ruffles it is gathering of the fabric that gives the frills. Secret of flounces lay in the cut - the seam edge of the flounce is much shorter then the hem line. It can be achieved by various means, most common ways to cut the flounce is :
- shape based method
- snail-cut flounce
- developing a flounce detail from the pattern piece
Going through the dress library, looking for the neckline ideas. In keeping with sea side theme I was considering the sailor collar. Non of the variations seems to work for what I have in mind. They are too rigid and formal looking, I want to fill the sea breath looking at them. Sailor collar 1