All patterns are given without seam allowances.
This dress is designed for lightweight knitted fabric like cotton jersey or interlock. Working with knitted fabrics you have to be aware of the way they differ from the woven ones:
- They fit the body better and do not need as much ease as the woven ones;
- Stretch fabric has to have stretch seams;
- Ball-point needle will prevent runs and holes at the seam.
Jersey dress step-by-step sewing instructions.
When laying out knitted fabric make sure it does not hang off the edge of your table. It will prevent uneven stretching and permanently skewed garment. If you have an opportunity, leave spread fabric overnight, it will allow fibers to settle after being rolled in the bolt. To mark and cut the pattern you will need:
- Ball-point pins;
- Tailor’s chalk or dry soap sliver.
- Sharp bent-handled shear
Sew on yokes both to the front and to the back, right sides in, of course. If you are going to use a topstitching machine later, there is no need to overlock it first, straight stitch on sewing machine is enough. If you do not have a topstitcher, overlock the edges together and make a decorative line with your sewing machine.
Prepare the pockets.
- Opening first - overlock the raw edge, fold and stitch. If topstitching, it is all done in one step.
- Baste the pockets’ round edge, spacing the pinches evenly. If the bulk is too great cut out the tiny wedges to flatten the seam allowances. Don’t be tempted to miss the basting step, it’s essential for the smooth round fold.
Note: The other method to sew the smooth round pocket is to use an ironing template. Cut the heatproof material in the exact shape of your pocket and iron-in the edges. Please mind that you are working with the knitted fabric and the stretching might get uneven, let your level of experience and skill, guide you.
Pin the pockets in place and sew them on.
Now, you are ready to join the front and the back parts. Put right sides in and overlock together the shoulder and the side seams.
Binding the neck and armholes.
- First you will have to determine the length of the bands you need. Patterns are given in the exact length of the edges to be bind, without allowance for the stretch. Every knitted fabric stretches differently and the amount ranges between 1% and 500%. Pin the bands in place with the desired tension and cut off the surplus of fabric.
- Stitch the ends of your adjusted binding pieces.
Note: Neckline binding will demand more stretch then armhole one.
Bind the neck and armhole edges with any method you are comfortable with.
Hem the dress. Topstitch around the neck and armholes if desired.