All patterns are given without seam allowances.
Light knitted fabrics are very comfortable to wear, but sewing them differs greatly from the woven ones. Distinct way of stretching and fraying means they have to be treated differently. All the way from designing through to cutting and assembling your garment there are particularities quite clear:
- They don’t need as much ease as woven one and hug the body’s curves much better
- Ball-point needles are must to avoid tiny holes and runs
- Seam line should be almost as stretchy as the garment itself
1. Laying out the fabric and cutting.
First of all you should determine if the fabric is one way (direction the print/pattern/sheen/texture runs) or two ways. If the fabric looks or feels differently in both directions your main pattern pieces will all have to face the same way. Don’t forget to match the stripes, if your fabric has them.
Note: Sufficient working surface is essential. You have to avoid any stretching on this stage. It cannot be disguised later, your dress will look askew.
2. Preparing the pockets.
Overlock the edge of the opening, fold and stitch. If using a top-stitching machine, just fold and stitch the opening of the pocket. If the fabric is very stretchy or curves a lot you might want to baste it first.
Note: When starting new project always do a test stitching on a piece of an off cut and make the adjustments if needed.
3. Preparing the pockets.
Baste and sew pockets were marked. If using pins, make sure they have a ball point.
4. Sewing back and front together.
Overlock shoulders and side seams, right sides in, of course.
5. Finish the edges.
Hem the sleeves and the bottom edge of your dress using any technique you prefer. Hemming the dress.
6. Prepare the neckband.
Note: Neck binding pattern piece is the same length as the neckline. You might shorten it according to the stretch of your material.
7. Place the neckband.
Fold the neck band lengthwise. Align the seam of the neckband with the left shoulder seam of the dress and pin it in place, stretching slightly.
8. Finish the neck band.
Sew on and topstitch the neckband.
9. Drawstring casing.
Baste the tie casing all the way around and pin it in place.
10. Last Step.
Stitch the casing and insert the drawstring.