Full skirt dress is a firm favourite with little girls for a good reason. It can be as dressy or as casual as you wish. With mums it is popular because it is not a big headache to make and can be adopted for any occasions. Made with silk and satin it is fit for a big celebration. Make it in floral print and your girl will look pretty all summer.
Frills and ruffles are very popular embellishments in dressmaking. There are quite a few methods to gather fabric, but double basting method is the universal one. Its main advantage is that it can be used with any fabric,be it knitted or woven and it is essentially the same done by hand or sewing machine. The beauty of this method is the neatness of the result, it produces even and tidy ruffles and works equally well on straight or circular pieces.
Depending on the design fabric can be cut on straight, cross-grain or on bias. Bias method is favoured when the ruffle will be finished with the lettuce edge, and requires a fair bit of stretching.
A great variety of effects can be achieved using a bias-cut tape. Its pliability lends itself well to all sorts of sewing projects. It can be a part of the dress structure, embellishment, or wholly practical element of the garment. Bias binding has many uses thanks to its unique qualities.
Examples of applying a bias binding:
There are many ways to finish a raw edge of your skirt or dress. Hemming the dress with contrasting colour bias tape adds a visual interest to the overall design. It can be done in straight or wavy line. You can also successfully use it to finish a curved hem of a circle skirt,flap of a pocket or petal sleeve.
Sewing circle skirt is not a time consuming project, this makes it a popular choice for home sewers. There is only four techniques you have to be familiar with: how to sew a curved hem, insert a zipper, attach a waistband and cut a buttonhole.
1. Cutting circle skirt.
Cutting a circle skirt can be done in one, two or three pieces, depending on the design and fabric width. When fabric is wide enough it is done in one piece. Since there are no seams you will have to use a welt or exposed zipper method.
Bias binding is a widely utilized in all sorts of sewing projects. Its uses are far wider then just a hem finish. It can have decorative as well as functional purpose in a garment. Though the craft shops have a wide variety of ready-made bias tapes, they often are the wrong shade for the project, or not stocked in a particular width. Hence is a necessity to make your own. Luckily it is not hard to produce at home and gives your more control over the design. It is a useful technique to know either you a dressmaker or a quilter.
Bias binding making sequence:
Iron the piece of fabric you are going to make the bias tape with.
Spread it flat in one layer. Do not allow it to hang over the working surface to avoid stretching.
Mark the strips of a desired width.
Cut. Quilters can put a rotary cutter and a cutting mat to use to speed up the process.
The keyhole neckline opening can be used as an embellishment of the garment or as a utility feature to widen the neckline or the hem of a sleeve for added functionality.
There are several methods the keyhole neckline can be finished with :
Today I will show how to face the keyhole neckline at the back of the garment.
Facing pattern is drafted as normal two piece neck facing is normally done, with enough extra fabric to accommodate the opening. The one important point is not to cut out the opening at this stage, just mark it clearly. This way the facing remains stable and wont distort under presser foot of your machine. Depending on the garment design and fabric thickness the interfacing might be a good idea.
There are three main types of puffed sleeves that are very simple to draft from the basic sleeve pattern. The idea is to create enough extra fabric for gathering, which means to "stretch" the pattern in places were the ruffling will accrue. The "stretching" can be done along the head and hem of a sleeve, but never in the underarm area.
The process itself is not complicated. Start with a paper pattern of a sleeve. Mark the middle third of your pattern with parallel lines 3-4cm apart, cut and open out the pieces. The fuller the sleeve you are after the further you spread the parts. Traditionally it cannot be made more then 5cm. For fuller sleeve cut the strips narrower. In some old pattern making books you can find the pictures of a puffed sleeve draft looking like a fan with the strips cut as narrow as 1cm.