The keyhole neckline opening can be used as an embellishment of the garment or as a utility feature to widen the neckline or the hem of a sleeve for added functionality.
There are several methods the keyhole neckline can be finished with :
Today I will show how to face the keyhole neckline at the back of the garment.
Facing pattern is drafted as normal two piece neck facing is normally done, with enough extra fabric to accommodate the opening. The one important point is not to cut out the opening at this stage, just mark it clearly. This way the facing remains stable and wont distort under presser foot of your machine. Depending on the garment design and fabric thickness the interfacing might be a good idea.
There are three main types of puffed sleeves that are very simple to draft from the basic sleeve pattern. The idea is to create enough extra fabric for gathering, which means to "stretch" the pattern in places were the ruffling will accrue. The "stretching" can be done along the head and hem of a sleeve, but never in the underarm area.
The process itself is not complicated. Start with a paper pattern of a sleeve. Mark the middle third of your pattern with parallel lines 3-4cm apart, cut and open out the pieces. The fuller the sleeve you are after the further you spread the parts. Traditionally it cannot be made more then 5cm. For fuller sleeve cut the strips narrower. In some old pattern making books you can find the pictures of a puffed sleeve draft looking like a fan with the strips cut as narrow as 1cm.
A circle skirt is pretty easy to make. It requires few pieces and basic techniques, making it a good exercise for beginners. If this is your first time I would advise to make a paper pattern first. For experienced sewers this step can be skipped; you are welcome to do the markings straight on the fabric.
To make this pattern you will need only two measurements - waist girth and the length of your skirt.
Circle skirts are commonly made in 360°, 270°, 180° or 90°, depending on how many folds you want. There is a formula to calculate the waist radius for each type of circle skirt.
Difference between flounces and ruffles comes from the way the folds are formed. With ruffles it is gathering of the fabric that gives the frills. Secret of flounces lay in the cut - the seam edge of the flounce is much shorter then the hem line. It can be achieved by various means, most common ways to cut the flounce is :
Circle skirt is loved by little girls, it is perfect for twirling. Lucky for busy mums they are dead easy to make and don't require pattern. Here I put together a measurement guide for making one.
Note: If you are going to make an elastic waist band make sure that the waistline of your skirt is big enough to put on comfortably. As a general rule it should be equal the circumference of the hips + 10 -12cm.