Full skirt dress is a firm favourite with little girls for a good reason. It can be as dressy or as casual as you wish. With mums it is popular because it is not a big headache to make and can be adopted for any occasions. Made with silk and satin it is fit for a big celebration. Make it in floral print and your girl will look pretty all summer.
Frills and ruffles are very popular embellishments in dressmaking. There are quite a few methods to gather fabric, but double basting method is the universal one. Its main advantage is that it can be used with any fabric,be it knitted or woven and it is essentially the same done by hand or sewing machine. The beauty of this method is the neatness of the result, it produces even and tidy ruffles and works equally well on straight or circular pieces.
Depending on the design fabric can be cut on straight, cross-grain or on bias. Bias method is favoured when the ruffle will be finished with the lettuce edge, and requires a fair bit of stretching.
A great variety of effects can be achieved using a bias-cut tape. Its pliability lends itself well to all sorts of sewing projects. It can be a part of the dress structure, embellishment, or wholly practical element of the garment. Bias binding has many uses thanks to its unique qualities.
Examples of applying a bias binding:
There are many ways to finish a raw edge of your skirt or dress. Hemming the dress with contrasting colour bias tape adds a visual interest to the overall design. It can be done in straight or wavy line. You can also successfully use it to finish a curved hem of a circle skirt,flap of a pocket or petal sleeve.
Exposed zipper look became rather fashionable recently. When it is properly done it can elevate the whole design and add an interesting detail to your dress, skirt or jumper. Exposed zipper can be placed in the middle of a garment piece, between two components of a garment or into the seam. Besides obvious functional role (putting on a garment or closing a pocket) it can be used as a construction element or as an embellishment.
The following method of sewing an exposed zipper doesn't requires a seam at all. The technique is similar to a bound buttonhole process scaled up five times. A separate piece of fabric is used to make a faced opening. You can go with the same fabric, or with a piece of lining if the thickness is too great. Stay is used to achieve a crisp lines and prevent stretching.
Sewing circle skirt is not a time consuming project, this makes it a popular choice for home sewers. There is only four techniques you have to be familiar with: how to sew a curved hem, insert a zipper, attach a waistband and cut a buttonhole.
1. Cutting circle skirt.
Cutting a circle skirt can be done in one, two or three pieces, depending on the design and fabric width. When fabric is wide enough it is done in one piece. Since there are no seams you will have to use a welt or exposed zipper method.
Bias binding is a widely utilized in all sorts of sewing projects. Its uses are far wider then just a hem finish. It can have decorative as well as functional purpose in a garment. Though the craft shops have a wide variety of ready-made bias tapes, they often are the wrong shade for the project, or not stocked in a particular width. Hence is a necessity to make your own. Luckily it is not hard to produce at home and gives your more control over the design. It is a useful technique to know either you a dressmaker or a quilter.
Bias binding making sequence:
Iron the piece of fabric you are going to make the bias tape with.
Spread it flat in one layer. Do not allow it to hang over the working surface to avoid stretching.
Mark the strips of a desired width.
Cut. Quilters can put a rotary cutter and a cutting mat to use to speed up the process.
There are usually more ways then one to do things. Here I'll show you the second method to sew a centred zipper. If with the fist one the top stitching played both utilitarian and decorative roles, in this method there is a separate stitch for each function.
Right sides together sew the seam leaving the zipper opening unstitched.