The keyhole neckline opening can be used as an embellishment of the garment or as a utility feature to widen the neckline or the hem of a sleeve for added functionality.
There are several methods the keyhole neckline can be finished with :
- bias binding
Today I will show how to face the keyhole neckline at the back of the garment.
Facing pattern is drafted as normal two piece neck facing is normally done, with enough extra fabric to accommodate the opening. The one important point is not to cut out the opening at this stage, just mark it clearly. This way the facing remains stable and wont distort under presser foot of your machine. Depending on the garment design and fabric thickness the interfacing might be a good idea.
- Place your facing piece on fold. Fabric grain should run the same way as the fabric grain of the main piece. Mark seam allowances and cut.
- Right sides together sew the shoulder seams.
- Press the seams open and overlock the edge.
The facing may follow the keyhole (aka tear drop) opening much closer. Personally I wouldn't go less then 7cm, but universal advise is impossible in this case. Let the overall garment design and your common sense guide you.
Preparing the garment:
Stitch the shoulder seams.
Press shoulder seams open
Applying the facing:
- Right sides together baste and sew the facing, carefully going 1cm inside off the marked keyhole opening.
- Cut the notches inside the curves, stopping two threads before the stitch. The tighter the curve the closer the notches should be.
- Turn the facing to the back of your garment and press. It is a good idea to baste it first, this way you can insure the smooth curve of the edge.
Decorative button or hook and eye are two most common options to secure the opening.